USB device keeps disconnecting? Test port, cable and device first
Port, cable, device or Windows setting: a few quick swaps can reveal which one is cutting the connection, and the fixes that follow are mostly free to try.
By
Marcus Delaney
In brief
- Restart first, then swap ports and devices to see whether the port, the accessory or the computer is at fault.
- Check connectors, cables, port debris and hubs before touching any software setting.
- Windows power options can switch USB ports off, but Microsoft recommends keeping selective suspend on.
- If an accessory fails on every port and every PC, the manufacturer is the next call.
A USB device that drops out again and again is close to useless, because almost everything plugged into a USB port depends on a steady link. A mouse stutters, a keyboard misses keystrokes, a camera cuts out, and a copy to an external drive never finishes. Engadget lays out a troubleshooting order that starts with the cheapest tests and works toward the settings.
Isolate the culprit before changing anything
Restart the computer first. A temporary bug is not worth a long session of troubleshooting.
If the problem remains, run two swaps. Plug the same device into another USB port, then plug a different device into the original port. When one accessory struggles in every port, the device or the computer is the likely cause. When several accessories misbehave only in one port, that port is the problem.
Inspect the hardware
Many disconnections come from physical wear. Work through these checks:
- Connector: look for a very loose fit, bent pins or other damage on the device’s plug.
- Cable: check for tears in the jacket and extreme bends. Damaged cables cut out far more often, so replace any that are removable.
- Port: shine a light inside to spot debris. Loosen it gently with a wooden toothpick, never metal, and use short bursts of canned air for anything truly stuck.
- Bent port pins: if the pins inside are warped or block a clean insertion, a professional should probably look at it, unless you are comfortable with hardware repairs.
- Hub: connect directly to the computer to see if anything changes. A hub adds a point of failure, especially when power-hungry devices share a basic model that draws power over USB. A powered hub plugged into the wall is the better choice.
On a desktop, leave long-term devices in the rear ports when possible. Those connect straight to the motherboard and carry slightly less overhead than front ports that rely on extension cables.
Review the Windows power and driver settings
Windows can cut power to idle USB ports, and that feature sometimes shuts off a device you are using. Two settings are involved.
- Right-click Start or press Win + X, then open Device Manager and expand Universal Serial Bus controllers.
- Double-click each item, open the Power Management tab, uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power”, and confirm with OK.
- Type “power plan” in the Start menu and open the power plan entry. Choose Change plan settings for the active plan, then Change advanced power settings.
- Expand USB settings, then USB selective suspend setting, and set Setting to Disabled.
An outdated or corrupted USB driver is possible but unlikely, unless you use a specialized hub. In Device Manager, the Driver tab offers Update Driver, which probably will not find anything newer. For a port you have singled out, Uninstall Device followed by a reboot makes Windows reinstall the driver automatically.
Matching a Device Manager entry to a physical port can be awkward. Plugging and unplugging a device while watching the page is a quick method, and the free USBDeview tool can help when that fails.
Know what the port and cable can actually do
Sometimes the link is fine but the task is not supported. The table sums up the mismatches Engadget points to.
| Situation | What to check |
|---|---|
| USB-C video output | Not every USB-C port supports video. Look for markings or read the product specifications. |
| USB-C charging | On some devices only one of several USB-C ports charges. |
| File transfer between phone and PC | Some cables only charge and carry no data. Try a cable equipped for transfers. |
| TV port and streaming stick | The port may not supply enough power to run the stick. |
| CarPlay cutting out | A new high-quality cable is the recommended fix. |
| Router or car ports | Read the manual or online guide to see what each port is approved for. |
When the device itself is the problem
The accessory can fail too, particularly a mouse or external drive that was dropped or exposed to a shock such as getting wet. If it does not work on any port, suspect the device before the computer.
Once all the steps above are done and an accessory still refuses to work on any port or any PC, Engadget advises contacting the manufacturer for support.
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